This trip with my friends - the Bouillot - was very long due. When I turned 60, I decided to invite family and friends from over the world to celebrate and organise for them an adventure in Namibia. This was supposed to happen in April 2020... then covid arrived and all borders were closed... so the trip was cancelled.
In April 2024, my friends Marc & Marie and their children Mathilde (Mathou) with her boyfriend Simon, Josephine (Jojo) and Julien with his new wife Manon finally made it. Meet these guys in the lobby of the Belgian airport, all dressed for winter sport... they had no idea what to expect in Namibia!
It was also their first time to drive 4x4 equipped for camping, which is the best way to discover the amazing beauty of Namibia.
Their visit was a great celebration to meet again exactly after 21 years! What better way to enjoy the "retrouivailles" by hunting for a treasure hunt around the Utopia estate... Jojo find the treasure which was in fact the water tanks on the hill just to remind them how clean water is so precious, especially in Namibia.
After a very lucky game drive around Ongos farm, it was time to prepare food for the trip and pack the vehicles.
My son James & his girlfriend Naomi joined us for the adventure.
The first destination was the large 22,000 km2 Etosha National Park, famed for its vast salt pan, diverse wildlife and unique landscapes.
There we spent 3 nights respectively at Okaukuejo, Halali & Olifantsrus. At Halali campsite, Marc already found some repair for Paul to do... can you Imagine!
Etosha offers stunning landscapes.
At the end of the rainy season, as there is water everywhere, the game is not too concentrated at the waterholes. However, we saw most of the species except rhino.
We even had an extremely close encounter with a herd of relaxed elephants crossing the road and stopping 2 m away from our car.
James stayed calm while filming them so close but I am sure his heart was beating fast.
The cherry on the cake was to see lions resting under a tree and a cheetah walking through the plain. What an experience for them!
The sides of the road to Olifantsrus were very wet.
The Olifantsrus campsite is a bit wilder than the 2 other camps... no swimming pool, bar or restaurant... but the lady at the reception was very nice.
Zebra were everywhere and the landscape was very green, especially on the western part of the park.
When you travel in Namibia, you must get used to deflate and inflate the tyres of your 4x4. Low pressure is more comfortable on gravel road and also reduce the risk of puncture. So everyone quickly learn how to use the air compressor of the 4x4.
The Kunene (also spelled Cunene) river which makes the northern border of Namibia with Angola, has two major waterfalls: Ruacana Falls & Epupa Falls. It was a very agreeable surprise to see Ruacana Falls in full flow (which I had never seen before like that). The dam must have been open just for our arrival... very lucky we were!
The adventure started with 3 organised campsites in Etosha (the only camping option). In order to immerse my friends into real adventure, I opted for our first wild camp at the Okomidhe waterfall viewpoint, along the Kunene river.
It is really a magic place and nobody was around that magnificent wild camping spot next to the waterfall. For me wild camping is the best way to connect with nature and I will always make sure that we leave the place in better condition than how we find it.
Despite the brown water, everyone dived into the sweet water of the pool and tried to stay under the fall.
James even jumped in from the top of the fall.
In the evening, everyone really enjoyed watching the beautiful and African sunset.
Wildcamping is very special and for the Belgian friends it was their first time.
The river above the fall is worth an exploration to see some strange rock formation and ficus tree with abondant and exposed root system on the cliff.
It is always nice to ride along a river and Kunene was no exception, offering a nice shaded picnic spot under the trees while behing observed by group of nguni cows.
After crossing a few dry riverbeds and a small muddy section of the road, we arrived at a very big river... at least 40 m wide. I walked trough a few times to find a crossing path but with a decent current, a depth of 30-50 cm and several soft spots... I was very perplex.
Then some guys arrived and an experience driver decided to cross with his Hilux. He knew the area and told us that there were 2 more even bigger rivers to cross before Epupa. He recommended to go around and avoid to get stuck for hours or even a day!
He managed to cross safely but the second car did not make it.
We decided to follow his advice, especially that we had a booking for 2 nights at Epupa. Marc was extremely sad but I think it was the right decision.
On our little detour of less than 100 km, we found several broken bridges and how high the flood was a few days before... very impressive!
The rain also creates some amazing feature in the sandy riverbeds.
After a quick stop at the top of the Epupa Falls at sunset, it was already dark when we found our perfect spot to park our 4 vehicles at the Epupa Camp, but too late to dine at the restaurant so we had to improvise a quick dinner at the camp.
Epupa waterfalls are very impressive and the baobabs on the rocky cliffs in the morning mist create amazing opportunities for photographs.
Also time for portrait photography... You can see la "patte de Julien"... very nice!
Namibia is a big country... so it is good to plan 2 nights every 3-4 days to relax and not be constantly sitting in the car. Epupa Camp was our first 2-night stop. So it was time to enjoy a cold beer at the pool (Paul) or hiking around the small island on the river (James).
It was also time for reading a book (Marc) or washing the dishes (Manon & Julien) or clothes (James & Naomi).
Some opted for a short rafting on the Kunene river, some indulged into a massage and some decided to hike to the falls at sunset.
Dinner with candlelights was really worth it.
Epuwo is the big town in the Kunene region where you can find half naked Himba women together with Herero woman with their traditional dress and large hat mixing with casually dressed people in the shops around town. A bit of shopping, filling up fuel tanks and also repairing a slow puncture on Marc 4x4.
The intention was to take a "supposedly dry" riverbed to reach Puros and camp there or even on the way in the riverbed... but as soon as the owner of the tyre-repair shop showed us a picture of a car stucked to the roof in the muddy water in that same riverbed just 2 days before... it was clear that we would have to take another road!
The new plan was then to drive south to Sesfontein then north to Puros. Our plan was however compromised by a little accident... the ranger hitted a big hole on the side of the road while I was avoiding to kill 2 young cows crossing the road in all directions. The front left shock broke instantly at its base and was fortunately stucked on the lower suspension arm. The link between the wheel and the stabilisation bar was also brocken. Strangely the car was still fine to drive, no strange steering.
After looking at the map, the team agreed to spend the night at some sort of communal camping spot still in construction but with amazing views on the surrounding valley and rocky mountains covered by white grass.
The next day, the Bouillot went to Puros to meet the desert elephants. They only saw giraffes and some game and found that the riverbed was still very muddy at some places. They alsoi reported that the gravel road to Puros was extremely corrugated.
James, Naomi & I went to the Sesfontein Fort workshop to attempt a repair on the brocken shock. There, 3 mechanics did their best to weld the shock on the car and protect the cv-joint which rubber boot was completely open.
Well done job for only N$600 to be rewarded by a cold beer at the pool before hitting the road again. By the way, the Fort has reasonably priced campsite and campers can enjoy the beautiful courtyard and swimming pool.
There is a hot spring at Ongongo and the rock pool is particularly inviting to jump in.
The campsite is also a great place to spend a night.
Our belgian friends were always amazed by the great open skies and the incredible sunset in Namibia... perfectly understandable when you come from Belgium where it rains quite a lot, almost all year round.
The repair on the slow punctured tyre in Opuwo was still leaking, so Marc decided to change the wheel.
When you have 7 Bouillot to feed, even breakfast is a big meal!
The next day drive through Damaraland offered incredible vistas along the road.
The Belgian old generation insisted to spend several nights in a lodge (not knowing the benefits and "luxury" of camping in Namibia). This was finally reduced to only one night at the amazing Grootberg lodge located on the top of a plateau and with incredible views on the valley.
The lodge is an absolute not-to-be-missed for the amazing service and passion of its local team who in fact own part of the lodge. They had also won an award for a song they made themselves and were very pleased to perform for us.
What is incredible is that the Belgians said after all that the lodge was not their best experience althopugh everything was more than perfect... except the bed (Marc said)... and that the pool was bloody cold!
Driving through small tracks in Damaraland valley offers spectacular vista on the arid landscape.
Desolation valley is in fact a green valley along the Huab riverbed surrounded by in arid landscape and purple mountains. That was the destination but the ranger (or Paul) - once again - was the culprit for another change of plans.
While trying to find where to cross the Huab riverbed to reach the other side of the valley, the welding on the shock broke when the ranger attempt to climb a steep sandy river bank. The noise was unbearable and Paul was afraid of the worse. So as we could't find the crossing point and knowing the state of the ranger, the team agreed to drive back to some easier gravel roads to drive south.
The Huab riverbed is quite a good spot to see elephant but that afternoon we were only - extremely - lucky to find a man from the small village De Riet - Andrew, who offered to repair the shock. While I was asking just for a strong piece of wire to attach the shock temporary, Andrew already had contacted someone to bring a welder. They were at least 3-4 mechanics struggling to get the shock and spring out of the car, surrounded by at least a dozen of curious people. This time they did a really good job which in fact is still holding until now (as the new shocks only arrived today 24-5!). I was more than happy to give them N$1000 to share.
What I found incredible is that despite all these changes of plans, the Bouillot were always very accommodating. In fact they even listed that encounter of local people as one of the highlights of their trip (but also because what happened the next morning!).
Indeed the next morning, while we were all having breakfast, Jojo shouted that the elephants had just stopped at the village to drink. The people of the village had specially build a drinking hole for them to avoid them to dig water pipes... symbiose with elephants.
So we jumped into the ranger and search for the elephants in the riverbed between the big ana and camelthorn trees. These guys had already walked quite a distance but when we reached them, it was an amazing sight to see them in the morning light in such a magic environment.
As the ranger could only take 3-4 passengers, I quickly drove back to fetch the others so everyone had a change to see these beautiful creatures walking in the morning sun, especially that little 2-week baby walking between the legs of his mother.
On the East side of Twyfelfontein and South of the petrified forests, there is an amazing landscape where hundreds of small rocky hills shaped as small pyramids are emerging from the plain.
We stopped to look closer at a Damara milk-bush (Euphorbia damarana) endemic to Namibia.
The plant is regarded as one of the most toxic plants in the country. Its toxic milky latex is capable of killing animals and humans except rhino (the reason some people including me wrongly call the plant the rhino bush) and oryx who feed upon it. Never use the dry stems as firewood and cook on them... you would die!
We found the perfect spot for lunch in the Ugab riverbed...
and time to collect a bit of firewood for the next campfires.
After a quick stop at the Uis supermarket, we drove South-East and after the Nainais village, turned into the Amaruru riverbed which displays interesting rock formations on its banks.
After a narrow passage though dense vegetation, the sandy track became very drivable and allowed some racing that Manon enjoyed very much!
We did not wanted to miss the red sunset on Spitzkoppe, which is always spectacular coming from the North.
Spitzkoppe, often called the "Matterhorn of Namibia," is a group of granite peaks rising dramatically from the Namib Desert. Renowned for its stunning rock formations and ancient bushman rock art, it attracts climbers, hikers, photographers and stargazing fundi.
Once again it was time to spend 2 nights there and relax in this magic environment. It was already dark when we arrived and many sites were already occupied... after turning around for some time we found the perfect spot, number 13 next to the Bushman Paradise.
Julien insisted to be photographed every time he was washing the dishes... some kind of a proof of his good team spirit I presume ;)
Passing the rock pool, we climbed to the top of one of the easiest big granite rock to admire the surrounding vistas and spent some time at the natural arch which is worth a visit just before sunset to play which our shadows on the rock.
The next morning 3 brave people - Jojo, Simon & myself - climbed a steep granite rock to enjoy the rising sun illuminating the plain and the emerging outcrops.
In order to avoid the gravel road to Henties Bay which can sometimes be very corrugated, as well as the B2 road to Swakopmund as much as possible (quite a dangerous road due to heavy trucks & fast driving cars), we cut through the surrounding plains and found on our way sort of an abandoned pink quartz cristal quarry where we collected a few of this magic crystals.
Pink quartz derives its color from trace amounts of iron or manganese. This gemstone symbolizes love, compassion, and emotional healing, making it popular in jewelry and crystal healing practices. Its gentle energy and soothing appearance evoke feelings of harmony and tranquility. Julien even reported immediately that he was feeling more in love driving with the crystals in his car!
Swakopmund is a big coastal town nestled between the Namib Desert's vast dunes and the Atlantic ocean and displays typical German colonial architecture. Time for shopping and refuelling. I also advise them to visit the Krystal Museum which displays all the rocks and gemstones found in the country and the best place to buy locally made jewelleries.
Another spectacular landscape surprised everyone when we stopped at the viewpoint before the turn off to Goanikontes.
Moon Valley is a surreal, eroded landscape resembling the lunar surface.
From Goanikontes, we drove into the Swakop riverbed between dramatic rock formations to reach the Moonvalley campsite which is also a family farm growing asparagus (that we bought). This campsite is certainly to be recommended for its unique style and large swimming pool... even when a bit cold it was very refreshing!
Surviving in harsh desert conditions, the Welwitschia mirabilis plant is often called a "living fossil". It grows only in the Namib Desert up to Iona National Park in Angola.
Welwitschia is not the oldest plant on earth, but it is one of the longest-living plants, with some individuals estimated to be over a thousand years old. Male & female plants both feature only two leaves that grow continuously from the wooden stem, becoming tattered and sprawling with time. Adapted to its arid environment, Welwitschia obtains moisture from fog and dew.
On the proposed activity in Walvis Bay, there was either kayaking or snorkeling with seals, but when we checked the weather forecast... cold & windy was not appealing anymore to anyone. As a substitute, we drove between the salt basins and the shallow waters of the lagoon which attract a lot of flamingo birds.
The Walvis Bay Salt Company is one of the largest salt producers in Africa which utilizes solar evaporation methods to extract high-quality salt from seawater. Some basins display a vivid pink color due to a high concentration of salt-tolerant microorganisms, such as Dunaliella salina algae, which thrive in the saline environment.
After a quick stop at the beach to feel the cold sea breeze, it was perfect timing to enjoy a delicious lunch (including fresh oysters) at the Anchors waterfront restaurant on the terrace with stunning views on the bay and the deep-water harbour.
On the way out, we could not resist to some birdwatching at the bird sanctuary along the M36 road and photograph the great and lesser flamingos. Distinguished by their vibrant pink plumage and long, slender necks, they feed by filtering algae and small crustaceans from water bodies. Their synchronized flocking behavior creates stunning visual displays in their natural habitats.
Leaving the ocean behing, our next destination was the Blutkuppe campsite. An amazing rugged camping spot where most of the time you will find yourself camping alone surrounded by rocky outcrops and ancient desert plains.
The Quiver Tree - Aloe dichotoma - has thick, succulent branches and bark, which bushmen used to make quivers for arrows, and thrives in arid conditions. Its striking silhouette and yellow blossoms make it a popular subject for photographers... together with some models of course!
Driving South, we drove through the amazing landscapes of the Namib Desert, then reached the main road from Swakopmund serpenting through the thousands hills covered by white grass.
The crossing of the beautiful Kuiseb canyon also offered opportunities for stunning photographs.
Then there was the traditional stop at Solitaire, a tiny settlement famous for its rustic charm and historic bakery and also well known for its apple pie and vintage car relics.
We arrived at Sesriem just in time for lunch. I had decided to try the newly built Oshana campsite which allows campers to use the facilities of the NWR campsite, including the swimming pool and bar/restaurant. For 2/3 of the high price charged by NWR for camping (>N$600pp), we each had our private ablution blog. The lodge where you register at arrival had a really stunning architecture!
Around 3 pm, it was time to leave the camp and the refreshing swimming pool to drive the 65 km West to the famous Sossusvlei, a breathtaking salt and clay pan surrounded by towering red sand dunes, some of the highest on Earth.
Arriving at Deadvlei around 4 pm was perfect timing to enjoy exploring this white clay pan that was cut off from water by sand dunes over 600 years ago. This occurred when the Tsauchab River's course was blocked by encroaching sand dunes, preventing the river from reaching the area. Deadvlei had previously been a thriving wetland, but the shifting dunes turned it into a surreal dry landscape with striking, dead camelthorn trees standing against the cracked earth.
The park gate open/close time are totally ridiculous and in fact are forcing the tourists who want to enjoy the ethereal sunsets on the dunes to drive fast to reach the gate in time... we arrived at dark 15 min after closure but fortunately the gate was still open.
The next morning, all the young Bouillot got up long before dawn to attempt the ascend of the well-known Big Daddy dune and try to reach its summit before sunrise. They were the first car at the gate and had to wait over 15 min for it to open... ridiculous!
Big Daddy dune stands as one of the tallest in the world, towering at around 325 m and offers awe-inspiring panoramic views of the surrounding desert landscape, including the massive mountain in the South emerging between the sand dunes.
It takes 60-90 min to reach the peak of the dune and only a few min to run down the steep and long slope to Deadvlei!
Before leaving the area, we explored the Sesriem Canyon, carved by the Tsauchab River over millions of years. Its towering walls, up to 30 meters high, reveal layers of sedimentary rock, and its narrow passages invite exploration.
Many years ago when Enya & James were still very young children, we camped at a wonderful campsite next to a natural spring where the kids swam in refreshing rock pools... I though it was Hauchabfontein... but when I registered with the local lady, there was a big confusion as it did not appear to be the place I remembered. Nevertheless, the campsite was a nice spot with a deep rock pool also fed by a small natural spring.
Our camping spot was also the perfect terrain to play petanque or boules, a popular french game that everyone enjoyed quite a lot. Participants aim to throw heavy metal balls as close as possible to a smaller wooden target ball, called a cochonnet... Marc, I hope it is still on your list ;)
Our last camping stop was in the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park which boasts the scenic Waterkloof trail, leading to the majestic Tula waterfall cascading into a refreshing rock pool.
The last two days were spent at Utopia Estate enjoying delicious meals and celebrating Mathou birthday.
What an amazing time we spent together!
This trip with my friends - the Bouillot - was very long due. When I turned 60, I decided to invite family and friends from over the world to celebrate and organise for them an adventure in Namibia. This was supposed to happen in April 2020... then covid arrived and all borders were closed... so the trip was cancelled.
In April 2024, my friends Marc & Marie and their children Mathilde (Mathou) with her boyfriend Simon, Josephine (Jojo) and Julien with his new wife Manon finally made it. Meet these guys in the lobby of the Belgian airport, all dressed for winter sport... they had no idea what to expect in Namibia!
It was also their first time to drive 4x4 equipped for camping, which is the best way to discover the amazing beauty of Namibia.
Their visit was a great celebration to meet again exactly after 21 years! What better way to enjoy the "retrouivailles" by hunting for a treasure hunt around the Utopia estate... Jojo find the treasure which was in fact the water tanks on the hill just to remind them how clean water is so precious, especially in Namibia.
After a very lucky game drive around Ongos farm, it was time to prepare food for the trip and pack the vehicles.
My son James & his girlfriend Naomi joined us for the adventure.
The first destination was the large 22,000 km2 Etosha National Park, famed for its vast salt pan, diverse wildlife and unique landscapes.
There we spent 3 nights respectively at Okaukuejo, Halali & Olifantsrus. At Halali campsite, Marc already found some repair for Paul to do... can you Imagine!
Etosha offers stunning landscapes.
At the end of the rainy season, as there is water everywhere, the game is not too concentrated at the waterholes. However, we saw most of the species except rhino.
We even had an extremely close encounter with a herd of relaxed elephants crossing the road and stopping 2 m away from our car.
James stayed calm while filming them so close but I am sure his heart was beating fast.
The cherry on the cake was to see lions resting under a tree and a cheetah walking through the plain. What an experience for them!
The sides of the road to Olifantsrus were very wet.
The Olifantsrus campsite is a bit wilder than the 2 other camps... no swimming pool, bar or restaurant... but the lady at the reception was very nice.
Zebra were everywhere and the landscape was very green, especially on the western part of the park.
When you travel in Namibia, you must get used to deflate and inflate the tyres of your 4x4. Low pressure is more comfortable on gravel road and also reduce the risk of puncture. So everyone quickly learn how to use the air compressor of the 4x4.
The Kunene (also spelled Cunene) river which makes the northern border of Namibia with Angola, has two major waterfalls: Ruacana Falls & Epupa Falls. It was a very agreeable surprise to see Ruacana Falls in full flow (which I had never seen before like that). The dam must have been open just for our arrival... very lucky we were!
The adventure started with 3 organised campsites in Etosha (the only camping option). In order to immerse my friends into real adventure, I opted for our first wild camp at the Okomidhe waterfall viewpoint, along the Kunene river.
It is really a magic place and nobody was around that magnificent wild camping spot next to the waterfall. For me wild camping is the best way to connect with nature and I will always make sure that we leave the place in better condition than how we find it.
Despite the brown water, everyone dived into the sweet water of the pool and tried to stay under the fall.
James even jumped in from the top of the fall.
In the evening, everyone really enjoyed watching the beautiful and African sunset.
Wildcamping is very special and for the Belgian friends it was their first time.
The river above the fall is worth an exploration to see some strange rock formation and ficus tree with abondant and exposed root system on the cliff.
It is always nice to ride along a river and Kunene was no exception, offering a nice shaded picnic spot under the trees while behing observed by group of nguni cows.
After crossing a few dry riverbeds and a small muddy section of the road, we arrived at a very big river... at least 40 m wide. I walked trough a few times to find a crossing path but with a decent current, a depth of 30-50 cm and several soft spots... I was very perplex.
Then some guys arrived and an experience driver decided to cross with his Hilux. He knew the area and told us that there were 2 more even bigger rivers to cross before Epupa. He recommended to go around and avoid to get stuck for hours or even a day!
He managed to cross safely but the second car did not make it.
We decided to follow his advice, especially that we had a booking for 2 nights at Epupa. Marc was extremely sad but I think it was the right decision.
On our little detour of less than 100 km, we found several broken bridges and how high the flood was a few days before... very impressive!
The rain also creates some amazing feature in the sandy riverbeds.
After a quick stop at the top of the Epupa Falls at sunset, it was already dark when we found our perfect spot to park our 4 vehicles at the Epupa Camp, but too late to dine at the restaurant so we had to improvise a quick dinner at the camp.
Epupa waterfalls are very impressive and the baobabs on the rocky cliffs in the morning mist create amazing opportunities for photographs.
Also time for portrait photography... You can see la "patte de Julien"... very nice!
Namibia is a big country... so it is good to plan 2 nights every 3-4 days to relax and not be constantly sitting in the car. Epupa Camp was our first 2-night stop. So it was time to enjoy a cold beer at the pool (Paul) or hiking around the small island on the river (James).
It was also time for reading a book (Marc) or washing the dishes (Manon & Julien) or clothes (James & Naomi).
Some opted for a short rafting on the Kunene river, some indulged into a massage and some decided to hike to the falls at sunset.
Dinner with candlelights was really worth it.
Epuwo is the big town in the Kunene region where you can find half naked Himba women together with Herero woman with their traditional dress and large hat mixing with casually dressed people in the shops around town. A bit of shopping, filling up fuel tanks and also repairing a slow puncture on Marc 4x4.
The intention was to take a "supposedly dry" riverbed to reach Puros and camp there or even on the way in the riverbed... but as soon as the owner of the tyre-repair shop showed us a picture of a car stucked to the roof in the muddy water in that same riverbed just 2 days before... it was clear that we would have to take another road!
The new plan was then to drive south to Sesfontein then north to Puros. Our plan was however compromised by a little accident... the ranger hitted a big hole on the side of the road while I was avoiding to kill 2 young cows crossing the road in all directions. The front left shock broke instantly at its base and was fortunately stucked on the lower suspension arm. The link between the wheel and the stabilisation bar was also brocken. Strangely the car was still fine to drive, no strange steering.
After looking at the map, the team agreed to spend the night at some sort of communal camping spot still in construction but with amazing views on the surrounding valley and rocky mountains covered by white grass.
The next day, the Bouillot went to Puros to meet the desert elephants. They only saw giraffes and some game and found that the riverbed was still very muddy at some places. They alsoi reported that the gravel road to Puros was extremely corrugated.
James, Naomi & I went to the Sesfontein Fort workshop to attempt a repair on the brocken shock. There, 3 mechanics did their best to weld the shock on the car and protect the cv-joint which rubber boot was completely open.
Well done job for only N$600 to be rewarded by a cold beer at the pool before hitting the road again. By the way, the Fort has reasonably priced campsite and campers can enjoy the beautiful courtyard and swimming pool.
There is a hot spring at Ongongo and the rock pool is particularly inviting to jump in.
The campsite is also a great place to spend a night.
Our belgian friends were always amazed by the great open skies and the incredible sunset in Namibia... perfectly understandable when you come from Belgium where it rains quite a lot, almost all year round.
The repair on the slow punctured tyre in Opuwo was still leaking, so Marc decided to change the wheel.
When you have 7 Bouillot to feed, even breakfast is a big meal!
The next day drive through Damaraland offered incredible vistas along the road.
The Belgian old generation insisted to spend several nights in a lodge (not knowing the benefits and "luxury" of camping in Namibia). This was finally reduced to only one night at the amazing Grootberg lodge located on the top of a plateau and with incredible views on the valley.
The lodge is an absolute not-to-be-missed for the amazing service and passion of its local team who in fact own part of the lodge. They had also won an award for a song they made themselves and were very pleased to perform for us.
What is incredible is that the Belgians said after all that the lodge was not their best experience althopugh everything was more than perfect... except the bed (Marc said)... and that the pool was bloody cold!
Driving through small tracks in Damaraland valley offers spectacular vista on the arid landscape.
Desolation valley is in fact a green valley along the Huab riverbed surrounded by in arid landscape and purple mountains. That was the destination but the ranger (or Paul) - once again - was the culprit for another change of plans.
While trying to find where to cross the Huab riverbed to reach the other side of the valley, the welding on the shock broke when the ranger attempt to climb a steep sandy river bank. The noise was unbearable and Paul was afraid of the worse. So as we could't find the crossing point and knowing the state of the ranger, the team agreed to drive back to some easier gravel roads to drive south.
The Huab riverbed is quite a good spot to see elephant but that afternoon we were only - extremely - lucky to find a man from the small village De Riet - Andrew, who offered to repair the shock. While I was asking just for a strong piece of wire to attach the shock temporary, Andrew already had contacted someone to bring a welder. They were at least 3-4 mechanics struggling to get the shock and spring out of the car, surrounded by at least a dozen of curious people. This time they did a really good job which in fact is still holding until now (as the new shocks only arrived today 24-5!). I was more than happy to give them N$1000 to share.
What I found incredible is that despite all these changes of plans, the Bouillot were always very accommodating. In fact they even listed that encounter of local people as one of the highlights of their trip (but also because what happened the next morning!).
Indeed the next morning, while we were all having breakfast, Jojo shouted that the elephants had just stopped at the village to drink. The people of the village had specially build a drinking hole for them to avoid them to dig water pipes... symbiose with elephants.
So we jumped into the ranger and search for the elephants in the riverbed between the big ana and camelthorn trees. These guys had already walked quite a distance but when we reached them, it was an amazing sight to see them in the morning light in such a magic environment.
As the ranger could only take 3-4 passengers, I quickly drove back to fetch the others so everyone had a change to see these beautiful creatures walking in the morning sun, especially that little 2-week baby walking between the legs of his mother.
On the East side of Twyfelfontein and South of the petrified forests, there is an amazing landscape where hundreds of small rocky hills shaped as small pyramids are emerging from the plain.
We stopped to look closer at a Damara milk-bush (Euphorbia damarana) endemic to Namibia.
The plant is regarded as one of the most toxic plants in the country. Its toxic milky latex is capable of killing animals and humans except rhino (the reason some people including me wrongly call the plant the rhino bush) and oryx who feed upon it. Never use the dry stems as firewood and cook on them... you would die!
We found the perfect spot for lunch in the Ugab riverbed...
and time to collect a bit of firewood for the next campfires.
After a quick stop at the Uis supermarket, we drove South-East and after the Nainais village, turned into the Amaruru riverbed which displays interesting rock formations on its banks.
After a narrow passage though dense vegetation, the sandy track became very drivable and allowed some racing that Manon enjoyed very much!
We did not wanted to miss the red sunset on Spitzkoppe, which is always spectacular coming from the North.
Spitzkoppe, often called the "Matterhorn of Namibia," is a group of granite peaks rising dramatically from the Namib Desert. Renowned for its stunning rock formations and ancient bushman rock art, it attracts climbers, hikers, photographers and stargazing fundi.
Once again it was time to spend 2 nights there and relax in this magic environment. It was already dark when we arrived and many sites were already occupied... after turning around for some time we found the perfect spot, number 13 next to the Bushman Paradise.
Julien insisted to be photographed every time he was washing the dishes... some kind of a proof of his good team spirit I presume ;)
Passing the rock pool, we climbed to the top of one of the easiest big granite rock to admire the surrounding vistas and spent some time at the natural arch which is worth a visit just before sunset to play which our shadows on the rock.
The next morning 3 brave people - Jojo, Simon & myself - climbed a steep granite rock to enjoy the rising sun illuminating the plain and the emerging outcrops.
In order to avoid the gravel road to Henties Bay which can sometimes be very corrugated, as well as the B2 road to Swakopmund as much as possible (quite a dangerous road due to heavy trucks & fast driving cars), we cut through the surrounding plains and found on our way sort of an abandoned pink quartz cristal quarry where we collected a few of this magic crystals.
Pink quartz derives its color from trace amounts of iron or manganese. This gemstone symbolizes love, compassion, and emotional healing, making it popular in jewelry and crystal healing practices. Its gentle energy and soothing appearance evoke feelings of harmony and tranquility. Julien even reported immediately that he was feeling more in love driving with the crystals in his car!
Swakopmund is a big coastal town nestled between the Namib Desert's vast dunes and the Atlantic ocean and displays typical German colonial architecture. Time for shopping and refuelling. I also advise them to visit the Krystal Museum which displays all the rocks and gemstones found in the country and the best place to buy locally made jewelleries.
Another spectacular landscape surprised everyone when we stopped at the viewpoint before the turn off to Goanikontes.
Moon Valley is a surreal, eroded landscape resembling the lunar surface.
From Goanikontes, we drove into the Swakop riverbed between dramatic rock formations to reach the Moonvalley campsite which is also a family farm growing asparagus (that we bought). This campsite is certainly to be recommended for its unique style and large swimming pool... even when a bit cold it was very refreshing!
Surviving in harsh desert conditions, the Welwitschia mirabilis plant is often called a "living fossil". It grows only in the Namib Desert up to Iona National Park in Angola.
Welwitschia is not the oldest plant on earth, but it is one of the longest-living plants, with some individuals estimated to be over a thousand years old. Male & female plants both feature only two leaves that grow continuously from the wooden stem, becoming tattered and sprawling with time. Adapted to its arid environment, Welwitschia obtains moisture from fog and dew.
On the proposed activity in Walvis Bay, there was either kayaking or snorkeling with seals, but when we checked the weather forecast... cold & windy was not appealing anymore to anyone. As a substitute, we drove between the salt basins and the shallow waters of the lagoon which attract a lot of flamingo birds.
The Walvis Bay Salt Company is one of the largest salt producers in Africa which utilizes solar evaporation methods to extract high-quality salt from seawater. Some basins display a vivid pink color due to a high concentration of salt-tolerant microorganisms, such as Dunaliella salina algae, which thrive in the saline environment.
After a quick stop at the beach to feel the cold sea breeze, it was perfect timing to enjoy a delicious lunch (including fresh oysters) at the Anchors waterfront restaurant on the terrace with stunning views on the bay and the deep-water harbour.
On the way out, we could not resist to some birdwatching at the bird sanctuary along the M36 road and photograph the great and lesser flamingos. Distinguished by their vibrant pink plumage and long, slender necks, they feed by filtering algae and small crustaceans from water bodies. Their synchronized flocking behavior creates stunning visual displays in their natural habitats.
Leaving the ocean behing, our next destination was the Blutkuppe campsite. An amazing rugged camping spot where most of the time you will find yourself camping alone surrounded by rocky outcrops and ancient desert plains.
The Quiver Tree - Aloe dichotoma - has thick, succulent branches and bark, which bushmen used to make quivers for arrows, and thrives in arid conditions. Its striking silhouette and yellow blossoms make it a popular subject for photographers... together with some models of course!
Driving South, we drove through the amazing landscapes of the Namib Desert, then reached the main road from Swakopmund serpenting through the thousands hills covered by white grass.
The crossing of the beautiful Kuiseb canyon also offered opportunities for stunning photographs.
Then there was the traditional stop at Solitaire, a tiny settlement famous for its rustic charm and historic bakery and also well known for its apple pie and vintage car relics.
We arrived at Sesriem just in time for lunch. I had decided to try the newly built Oshana campsite which allows campers to use the facilities of the NWR campsite, including the swimming pool and bar/restaurant. For 2/3 of the high price charged by NWR for camping (>N$600pp), we each had our private ablution blog. The lodge where you register at arrival had a really stunning architecture!
Around 3 pm, it was time to leave the camp and the refreshing swimming pool to drive the 65 km West to the famous Sossusvlei, a breathtaking salt and clay pan surrounded by towering red sand dunes, some of the highest on Earth.
Arriving at Deadvlei around 4 pm was perfect timing to enjoy exploring this white clay pan that was cut off from water by sand dunes over 600 years ago. This occurred when the Tsauchab River's course was blocked by encroaching sand dunes, preventing the river from reaching the area. Deadvlei had previously been a thriving wetland, but the shifting dunes turned it into a surreal dry landscape with striking, dead camelthorn trees standing against the cracked earth.
The park gate open/close time are totally ridiculous and in fact are forcing the tourists who want to enjoy the ethereal sunsets on the dunes to drive fast to reach the gate in time... we arrived at dark 15 min after closure but fortunately the gate was still open.
The next morning, all the young Bouillot got up long before dawn to attempt the ascend of the well-known Big Daddy dune and try to reach its summit before sunrise. They were the first car at the gate and had to wait over 15 min for it to open... ridiculous!
Big Daddy dune stands as one of the tallest in the world, towering at around 325 m and offers awe-inspiring panoramic views of the surrounding desert landscape, including the massive mountain in the South emerging between the sand dunes.
It takes 60-90 min to reach the peak of the dune and only a few min to run down the steep and long slope to Deadvlei!
Before leaving the area, we explored the Sesriem Canyon, carved by the Tsauchab River over millions of years. Its towering walls, up to 30 meters high, reveal layers of sedimentary rock, and its narrow passages invite exploration.
Many years ago when Enya & James were still very young children, we camped at a wonderful campsite next to a natural spring where the kids swam in refreshing rock pools... I though it was Hauchabfontein... but when I registered with the local lady, there was a big confusion as it did not appear to be the place I remembered. Nevertheless, the campsite was a nice spot with a deep rock pool also fed by a small natural spring.
Our camping spot was also the perfect terrain to play petanque or boules, a popular french game that everyone enjoyed quite a lot. Participants aim to throw heavy metal balls as close as possible to a smaller wooden target ball, called a cochonnet... Marc, I hope it is still on your list ;)
Our last camping stop was in the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park which boasts the scenic Waterkloof trail, leading to the majestic Tula waterfall cascading into a refreshing rock pool.
The last two days were spent at Utopia Estate enjoying delicious meals and celebrating Mathou birthday.
What an amazing time we spent together!